Quintessential-Man

Marc Jacobs 'brunches' with the Zoe!

2009-06-19T10:45:00.004+01:00

Last year, New York Magazine reported the following:

"Rachel Zoe was seen screaming and cursing because she couldn’t get into the Marc Jacobs show. She tried to fight her way in through the bouncers, but they pushed her back. She ran off to her Town Car while the other celebs enjoyed mini-bottles of Moët and an on-time show inside."

I'm glad to see that Rachel has forgiven Marc as the pair joked over brunch in Pastis, New York. I was just so touched that they've rekindled their passionate (urm, erase that) 'fashionate' affair. So much so, I had to take a picture.

And for those wondering - yes - she did eat. Infact, she couldnt wait to get her emaciated little lips around her seared Tuna Nicoise salad.

Lads, its time to get Suited and Booted

2009-05-09T14:07:00.003+01:00

For the past four or five seasons menswear has become increasingly formal. Jeans and T-shirts are traded in for sharp tailored blazers and the ubiquitous white shirt. But just because its formal, its doesn't mean that you cant make a style statement. Here are a few ensembles from Thom Browne's collection with Brooks Brothers, Black Fleece ....

Paisley single breasted suit (Paisley is massive for A/W)

The Talented Mr Ripley

Tuxedo Jackets mixed with tailored shorts create an unexpected twist to the most formal of outfits

My Manic Marc Addiction

2009-05-08T17:54:00.007+01:00

Today - for the second time in as many weeks - I visited the new ‘marc by Marc Jacobs store'. Desperately trying to satisfy another ‘marc’ induced, fashion fix.

As I entered and started to feel myself get high on the bargains, my thoughts turned to whether this impulsive behaviour towards the brand was at all worth it. After all, I am buying ‘designer clothes’ for less than a purple bank note and as for the quality, well, you get what you pay for. Then it dawned on me, it’s the fake luxury that has turned me into this ‘marc’ junkie. Why should I go to Topman when I can go to marc and get a ‘designer’ T for the same price? And best of all, walk out with a lux looking shopping bag.

With accessories costing the same as a ‘Maccy D’s’, it’s hardly surprising that I’ve visited the store more times than Amy Winehouse would her crack dealer. However, I know I’m not the only one with this shameless ‘marc’ addiction - as a fashionable friend (cough* Ella) has visited so often that the assistant has practically put her on his Christmas card list - but with word of mouth spreading faster than Swine flu, more and more people will surely become addicted.

Now, I may sound a snob, but I don’t want every Tom, Dick or Sharon for that matter draping themselves in the same clobber as me, and with the prices being so affordable; anyone can buy into the brand. Leaving us disciples of fashion exposed to the stylistically impaired. Just think you would want the chav sitting next to you on the train wearing the same top? No!!!

So a word of caution, spend, spend, spend if you like, but in six months time when word has spread and you cannot blink without someone with the same bag as you, the ‘marc’ habit may come to an abrupt end.

Marc by Marc Jacobs, 56 South Audley Street, W1. 0207 408 7050

Studio_805

2009-03-20T16:33:00.005Z

He’s observed Vivienne Westwood munch on carrots with chopsticks, witnessed Jeremy Scott dance around Boombox in a Mankini, and would like to meet Stephen Hawkins in a dark alley. These are just some of the memories and moments shared by Andrew Bannister. The creative force behind one of London’s most exiting designer labels – studio_805.

I caught up with him after his label’s debut at Vauxhall Fashion Scout during London Fashion Week… here’s what he had to say.

Why did you decide to design under the name Studio 805 and not your own?
I like the connotations attached to it…plus my name isn’t very exciting, is it?

Also, where did the name Studio 805 come from?
It came from my old address in Leeds where I lived for the final two years of my fashion degree.

Do you primarily describe yourself as a menswear designer?
Yes in that I design for myself; but a lot of my pieces are intentionally unisex, I try not to limit my market! The more the merrier I say.

Who or what inspires you?
Me, myself and I to be honest, I’m quite shy so clothes are a language, or signal, I use to express myself. I’m continually pushing my dress sense in order to find out what I can get away with! This behaviour drives my collections and in turn my label.

Your collection reminded me of Leigh Bowery, was he an inspiration for the collection? If so, why?
Yes, in the sense that his drive was similar to that of mine mentioned above, I admire his creativeness, guts and massive sense of humour!

You worked at Vivienne Westwood for a while, did the time you worked there influence the way you design? And was she as eccentric as she appears?
Of course, but not literally, I learnt so much from the pattern cutters I worked with, especially the care and accuracy they took with pattern drafting and cutting. Getting the pattern right can make or break a garment, regardless of the fabric used. As for Vivienne, errr, a little, I can remember seeing her once eating a pile of shredded carrot with chop sticks. Is that eccentric enough?

Your slogan seems to be ‘fashioning a future’, what do think will happen within fashion in the next 5 years? And where would you like to be in that time?
Who knows, if I knew that I wouldn’t be in fashion I’d be a rich man! I’ve only just started my journey and it’s already getting terribly exciting.

Where do you currently stock? And how much do your garments typically cost?
My flat! No stockists at the moment but I did have one-off pieces at the pineal eye before it closed. I’m working to private orders at the moment but will be looking at stockists climbing aboard this year. Price wise it depends…they have a high finish and some pieces are more complicated/time consuming to make…vests from £60, through to shirts from £120, trousers from £150 and ending at tailored jackets from £400.

On your myspace page there are photos from the now legendry Boombox. What was it like to be in a place full of so many creative people? And did any of them have an impact on the way you think and create your garments?
I really miss boombox…it’s one of those times in your life that passes by far too quickly but will always be with you…it was just an honest, crazy laugh! No impact on my designs but when out clubbing i always dress by the same rule: not to wear the same outfit twice. It’s a tough brief but one that always gets results!

Do you have any stories you can share about your experience there?
None that I can remember - hang on - Jeremy Scott and a low cut men’s swimsuit spring to mind! Best leave it there!

You once studied chemical engineering, only slightly different to fashion, what made you change career and design?
The fear of being trapped on an oil refinery for the rest of my life…a boiler suit and hard had is not a good look!

Is there anything else you would like to add at all?
Don’t mix black and brown

And lastly… Steven Hawkins in a Dark alley???
No comment!

Fashion Moment: The Metrosexual

2008-12-07T14:29:00.002Z

The Metrosexual; is a term first coined by Mark Simpson - a writer on all things pop culture - in 1994. Simpson describes the term as a, “young man with money to spend, living in or within easy reach of a metropolis - because that's where all the best shops, clubs, gyms and hairdressers are.”

Metrosexuals’ have evolved over the years, from the immaculatly dressed dandy of the 1800’s to the ‘60s Mod - with his tailored suit and narrow lapels, button-downed shirt and winkle pickers – through to the gender-bending New Romantics of the ‘80s.

But what started primarily as an urban trend in the mid to late ‘90s, has since become an accepted part of mainstream culture. Thanks to, sarong wearing metrosexual icon, David Beckham. Every Joe Bloggs up and down the kingdom sports some shade of pink – previously a colour exclusive to women and gay men. The Metrosexual now cannot leave home without his ‘manbag’ and can even shop for ‘guyliner’ in his local Superdrug.

However well accepted this movement’s been; high-fashion continues to take it a step further. Prada’s A/W 08-09 Collection, had models strutting down the catwalk in mini tutus. Marc Jacobs started wearing kilt-like skirts by Comme des Garcons, and even wore heels to his collections’ this year. Even Russell Brand is, in on the act, wearing pair of Sass & Bide ruched ‘black rat’ leggings.

All of this demonstrates that the metrosexual is continuing to evolve. And with the continuation of feminisation of menswear. It wont be long until the metrosexual embraces a feminine ideal towards clothing. Perhaps, by 2025, men everywhere will be wearing skirts. Possibly, with Miucia Prada doing for men and skirts, what Yves Saint Laurent did for trousers and women in the late ‘60s.

'Fancy wearing a pickled shark?'... "No ta, I'll wear this T-shirt instead."

2008-12-06T11:19:00.010Z

Is there anything that Damien Hirst cannot do?

Well - apart from prophetic acts such as, turning water into wine and getting people drunk on bottles of Evian - the world's most expensive living artist has decided to collaborate with every one's fave denim brand, Levi's.

With T-shirts and Hoodies awash with Skulls and effervescent colours, you would be mistaken if you thought, 'Liberace meets Captain Jack'.

With this being Hirst's first foray into fashion, it's an ideal opportunity to bring the art-world into your wardrobe and with printed T's from £55 (Brownsfashion.com) - £10,299945 cheaper than his The Golden Calf - it's a steal.

Couple this T-shirt with a pair of skinny J's and a pair of virginal white plimsolls; you will look a like a well dressed, walking, talking work of art...

It's not just cool, its Antarctic cool!

2008-12-03T16:18:00.003Z

This is the new Burberry 'Antarctic' watch. As I'm sure you will agree it's fierce and, at £475, it wont be breaking the bank.

This is one of the many lux items that will be stocked in their revamped Knightsbridge store. The menswear will be from the prorsum and London collections aswell as a full range of accessories such as this uber cool watch.

2008-12-02T18:47:00.000Z

Giles by Giles Deacon is a new menswear range for, mega naff highstreet store, New Look.

Before viewing the collection I had a vision - of super cheap material that looked as if it has been cut with a knife and fork! However, I was pleasantly surprised with the checked shirts and tech bombers and with pieces from £6 it looks set to be a success.

Drapers fashion editor Khabi Mirza tells us SS09 key trends

2008-12-01T17:20:00.000Z

So did you get that? Checks, '80s Sportswear and Tech fabrics...

Ross and Brand Leggit?!

2008-12-01T14:17:00.000Z

Russell Brand and Jonathan Ross have more in common than a mutual love for revealing their exploits with dirty slags on crusty old actors' answerphones.

Instead they share a passion for leggings.

Brand,33, has been papped several times wearing a pair of 'black rat' ruched leggings (£135, brownsfashion.com) . Whilst Ross,48, was seen taking out the trash in a primary coloured pyjama-esque ensemble with matching sweater and leggings by Vivienne Westwood (£575, Selfridges).

However, I doubt leggings will become a wardrobe staple just yet, but give it a summer or two and we will start seeing manorexics' all over the country wearing them.

P.s. Don't forget, but for tomorrow and Wednesday only, it's the Hugo Boss Pre-Christmas sample sale @ 19 Mandela St, NW1 0DT. 9am - 8pm. £2 entry.

Marc Jacobs love for the Skort

2008-11-30T17:01:00.000Z

Skirts, a garment usually worn by women and scotsmen. So why has Marc Jacobs started wearing them?

Marc's obsession with skirts seems to be going from stregnth to stregnth. In september he was photographed taking his bow at his Marc by Marc Jacobs show, flashing his legs under what can only be described as a plaid kilt.

Here, he's wearing a pleated skirt by COMME des GARCONS. He told New York Magazine, "It’s not really a kilt, It’s kind of like a kilt and a short." So it's a Skort then Marc?

He discovered his love for the skort after deciding to do design more skirts for his womens A/W 08 - 09 collection. Adding, "I did a lot more skirts in this collection for women than I usually do—we usually do a lot of pants. So I bought this one, and I discovered how nice it felt to wear. They’re comfortable, and wearing it made me happy, so I bought more. And now I just can’t stop wearing them." But when he was asked if he would introduce them to his mens line he answered, 'no'.

But surely this is a sign of things to come. In the '60s and '70s Yves Saint Laurent introduced the concept of the trouser suit to women so surely its only a matter of time till the 'skort' is embraced by the male populus?